Calcutta: snapshots
Neon halogen street lamps
Through misty winter mornings
Calcutta looks quaint and romantic
There is history smeared on all corners
From Princep Ghat to Park Street
With early morning walkers up for a stroll
Aroma of freshly made ‘kachoris’ and ‘jalebis’
This is unique to Calcutta
Flocks of men gather chatting on street corners with newspapers in hand
At every nook at every stand
Talking furiously about current affairs and politics
While sipping on hot ‘cha’ from their earthen pots
From the corner of the eye they watch passers by
Yet neck deep in dialogue and arguments
And ready to fight for their convictions with rolled up sleeves
And a fist gesture ready to go
On the other hand you can get to see the Bengali bourgeoisie
Enjoying weekend evenings at the various British clubs,
A legacy left behind by the British, we are so proud of
Yet we are colonised, hyphenated and divided
Calcutta is a city of paradoxes:
Faint bhajans chanted in the distance competing with the ‘ajaan’ in full swing
This is a political move propitiating both parties
Strategically when the elections are around the corner
The busy streets are laden with rallies and processions
With strikes and ‘bandhs’ everyday affecting the GDP
And a new excuse for government officials to go on French leave
Summer is round the corner heralded with load shedding
There is one city where the ambassador reigns supreme
As Durga Puja ushers in a season of new festivities
In comparison spring and summer have lost its glory
Fancy themed “Puja Pandals” built over blocked roads
Puja enthusiasts wading through crowds
Youngsters wind up and hover around Maddox Square
Maa Durga has come to visit earth with all her children
This festival excitement to both believers and non believers
Restaurants on Park Street jam packed
Flurys has lost its charm, though not its clientele
Heart wrenching to see ‘Blue Fox’ replaced by Mc Donalds
Stephen Court has been set blaze
And many lives lost
Unidentifiable charred bodies
The heritage building has been brought down to ashes
Music World has shut shop, though the foreign goods still adorn the foot paths
For a while they were in “news”
And the inefficiency of the fire brigade accentuated
With every article moving from first page to the last page
Finally disappearing from the newspapers
While bangali babus come to Writers Building after 12 in the afternoon
On the other hand there are multinationals coming up in Rajerhat
With ‘City centre’ and ‘Swabhumi’ as new hang outs in Salt Lake
Nothing has changed in the soul of Calcutta
Victoria is still a landmark of Calcutta’s past glory and pride
The remnants of the British Raj echoes in every part of Calcutta
North Calcutta has retained its flavour
With derelict buildings still standing tall
The old world colliding and complimenting the new
The infamous coffee house now patronized by pseudo intellectuals
The Ganges still flows tirelessly
The Howrah Bridge a mammoth construction
Calcutta’s engineering feat of yesteryears
Bengalis are lazy when it comes to most things
Yet nothing can defy the Bengali spirit in some other things
Even in the heatwave landmarks bustling
City dwellers jostiling
Street theatres adorning the streets
Cascade of visitors outside Rabindrasadan and the academy
Nandan has the most prolific turn out at their film festival
There are endless musical soirees all throughout the city
Then there is always Max Mueller or Alliance Francaise for that foreign touch
Though buses are being burnt in the city
Taxi drivers refuse you a ride
The quintessential Bengali will set foot to pursue the arts
They will tolerate everything substandard
Other than their sense of ‘art’
The sports fanatics will stand and watch cricket match in Eden Gardens
Or cheer their foot ball team at Mohan Bagan
In the sweltering heat and cheer away with great fervour even for the opposition
At the other end of the continuum
The dichotomy of the city continues
With billboards set to rhyme
And music playing when people cross roads
Calcutta is the most welcoming city
With the most warm people in the world filled with emotions
Kookie jar is still making the best cakes at cut throat prices
La Martiniere still has tired school goers braving it out with heavy school bags
And trying to “save the planet” by painting walls
And going strong with their fests
Nature calls and you will find men urinating everywhere
Hygiene written off
Invisible public toilets
All amenities fade into the oblivion
Congested alleys
Ancient hand pumps
Dirt strewn outside bins
Graphiti adorning on walls
You have it all here
Another fascinating aspect
The nouveau riche consumers shop at various malls
Abandoned is good old New Market
Lost are the charms when people ate at ‘Nahoums’
And shopped for Christmas trees and bought candy there
They go to Barista and CCD instead
We may spend thousands in a supermarket,
Yet we must haggle to the last penny with a street vendor
Somewhere in his heart still reside lines from Keats, Shelley and Byron
Though Tagore is unquestionably Bengal’s favourite
Charged with passion, yet lack of ambition
Too proud of the past fame
Always ready to enlist names
Who hail from our great “motherland”:Bengal
Yet no care in the world about business of the state
Or its financial future
Brings itself shame to the rest of the world with:
Glitches such as :“Nandigram” and “nano”
Yet everyday we have such large hearts that we play “agony aunt”
And willingly lend a sympathetic ear to any passerby
But the funny part is we are low in remittances
In Calcutta everyone is a universal ‘dada’ or ‘didi’
Monsoons are severe and there is no way out
Rather than wading through dirty water in hand pulled rickshaws
Enjoying the water clogged streets
Children dancing through the filth
While their parents will be complaining
A huge chunk of our youth population has disappeared
Due to a phenomenon called: “Brain Drain”
Yet those who remain, claim to remain sane
And health wise we are zero
Always suffering from all kinds of physical and mental pain
We are essentially carnivores to the true spirit
Sunday lunch comprises fish and rice
Followed by delectable “rosogollas” and “misti doi”
Evening walks at the Maidan strewn with lovers walking hand and hand
People are happy even with surrounding misery
Centuries old trams and most efficient metro lines
Rabindrasangeet playing intermittently among English and Hindi popular songs
The modern has taken over the old
Thats the new wave of “development “, i am told
December means weddings with shehnai playing in the background
And ” notun gur” products
Govt. art college students with “jholas” on their backs
Unshaven unkempt beard adorning an empty pocket
A poet in every spirit
A romantic at heart
Espousing almost all political ideologies
Doused in philosophies
Reciting Lenin,Stalin,Marx verbatim
Stereotypical Bengali’s penchant for Marx
As though he flows more in our veins
Than even the Rhine through Germany
Sometimes gossip alternates with high intellectual debate
Middle class “high moral grounding”
We are connoisseurs of every sense of “smell”:
be they the stinking alleys leading to “Nizam rolls”
or the “shiraz biryani”
From choosing whiskey on park Street
to buying pedas at Dakshineshwar
It is all done with a lot of devotion
Hail to Goddess Kali
However I console myself
For better or for worse
This is my Calcutta
Decadence is omnipotent
Yet you can make out the past opulence
With ‘jholas’ on their backs and eager to:
Theorise, poeticize and eulogize also criticize
We may know it all, yet we feign ignorance
For better or for worse this is my Calcutta